I was a young guy in my late twenties when I worked for a small trade newsletter publisher on Manhattan’s Upper West Side. In the “Ford To City: ‘Drop Dead!'” nineteen seventies, the area was still part of the gritty New York City of yesteryear. There on the Upper West Side were sawdust-floored stores that sold candies and nuts, Kosher meats, dairy, smoked fish, bread, cakes and cookies.
Of the bakeries, my much-older co-workers told me: go to Grossingers on Columbus Avenue for the brownies and go to Lichtman’s on 86th Street and Amsterdam for breads, black-and-whites, and cakes. And they were right.
Louis Lichtman came to New York from Hungary and the word around the neighborhood, for forty-something years, was that his cakes were sublime. So when I wanted to impress my young wife’s fancy-pants Westport aunts and uncles, I ordered a huge mocha cake.
On a hot day in late summer, I picked the cake up and placed it in the back seat of my very used, non-air conditioned Toyota Corona. Back then, what young city-dweller could afford a car, never mind one with a/c? We drove merrily up the Merritt Parkway to Westport, windows open, AM radio blasting. Our hearts swelled with anticipation.
We arrived, proudly offered the Lichtman’s cake box to our hosts, and stood back for an anointment of high-praise. This was, after all, a special order mocha cake from Lichtman’s!
My wife’s aunt opened the box, to reveal a very melted, very crooked, special order cake. It was still tasty, but it was aesthetically compromised. “Oh….” she said with disapproval that stings even as I write this so many decades later. “I can’t serve THAT!”
The dinner party survived, I survived, my wife survived and Lichtman’s certainly survived, for another ten years. But, in the late spring of 1987, Louis Lichtman’s landlord jacked the man’s rent 500 percent. The Hungarian immigrant cried as an auctioneer sold off the baker’s equipment and fixtures to a room full of his competition. They, too, would soon fail, as gentrification smothered the city’s commercial oxygen supply like cultural kudzu.
Today, the southwest corner of 86th Street and Amsterdam Avenue shelters an architectural hardware store, a dry cleaning shop, and a custom shade store. Back in ’87, Lichtman’s rent increased five-fold, from $1300 a month to $6,500. I wonder what these storekeepers are paying now?
I suppose all that is beside the point. Here’s the real story: only three years after the auctioneer’s gavel signaled the last sale of his store’s baking equipment, Louis Lichtman, the man who crafted my melted mocha cake, died of cardiac arrest, at the age of 78.
In three years, he was done.
That was almost thirty years ago. My career has carried me a long way and I am no longer the young guy with a beat-up Toyota, so eager to impress supercilious suburban relatives. And yet, when I think of Mr. Lichtman’s story arc I cannot help but to compare it with my own.
For our tales are more alike than one might think. We both came a long way. We both learned, honed and loved our respective crafts. We both cherished our city and stayed with it, even as we were ground down by it. And finally, he faced the road’s end, a fate no man escapes.
As for me, do I dare ever to retire?
Ahhh…Lichtmann’s…on weekend mornings the luscious aroma of sliced babka being toasted in the oven greeted me.
I remember that when they went on vacation (the nerve!), they sold everything at deep discounts, and threw in some more for good measure.
And their Hungarian butter biscuits (75 cents, so not for every day!) were amazing.
What a shame that landlords so rarely consider the value that cherished places like Lichtmanns add to a neighborhood.
Thanks for writing, Jon. Please share my blog with friends, if you are so inclined. Best, Marty
Just shared your post with someone on Nextdoor who was remembering Lichtman’s cherry danish.
I’ve lived UWS for many years but unfortunately cannot recall Lichtmann’s. We were likely too broke in those days for cake.
And I’m with you about retirement. Not expecting that any time soon 🙂
It was a long time ago….glad you enjoyed reading the post. Come back weekly, and spread the word — and please stay safe,
Marty
I recently posted on nextdoor.com that I was in search of real cherry danish. I mentioned Lichtman’s – I used to stop there just about every morning to pick up a danish or 2 on my way to work. As soon as I walked in the door, the ladies behind the counter would be already placing my danish in a bag. When my father, who had moved to California (where Jewish-style pastries were basically nonexistent) came back to New York to visit, I proudly walked him over to the bakery to show it off. I was devastated when they closed. Someone on nextdoor.com sent me the link to your piece which I was delighted to read. I knew that it closed due to a rent hike but had no idea it was that obscene.
Thanks for writing. Come visit the blog weekly and do tell your friends. Stay safe,
Marty
Martin Kleinman:
What a wonderfully crafted piece on Lichtman’s. My now wife Cathy Eilenberg introduced me to Mr. Lichtman, his son Harvey and his fabulous bakery about 55 years ago. That was about 3 years before the lady in white, ever present at the front of the store, Mrs. Erzie Szucs would become my mother-in-law. Every piece of pastry was a work of art. Mr. Lichtman’s Challah’s were a sight to behold if even for their architectural excellence. My personal favorite was Pogača, a biscuit with a unique flavor & texture. Thank you for reviving a memory. Maybe my adult children will read it.